Ricks Tips: Intro

This Blog is designed to give you an opportunity to tap into Rick’s experience and to ask questions or to read his suggestions. Rick’s expertise is one of Greco Landscaping’s most valuable assets…

You can email Rick at


Dear Rick,

We love the job you do each spring. We also appreciate your quick response to our snow plowing needs as well. However, sometimes, I have noticed that the blades of the snow plows can beat up the grass and some of the wonderful shrubbery you planted 2 years ago.

My question; is there something we can do to help you make it less damaging to lawn and limb?


Wendy H.


Dear Wendy,

That’s a great question and I am glad you asked! A very simple solution is the purchase of flexible boundary markers. They come in many forms and can be easy found at all the Big Box stores, garden centers, or local hardware stores. Of course, Wal-Mart, Target and the like also would carry the markers, but I don’t think they need any more advertisement from me!

Use the markers to establish a boundary line where the driveway meets the turf or bed. These markers usually stand over 3 feet tall. Place them at the base of the driveway and then at 15 foot intervals. This way, my men can see where to plow and to keep the turf and shrubs out of harms way.

Dear Rick,

Thanks to you and your team, we have a beautiful lawn. We also have a golden retriever.

How can I minimize grass damage caused by Rusty’s pee??


Dorothy (Frustrated in Franklin)


Dear Dorothy,

No need to be peeved! Beautiful green grass and canines need not be mutually exclusive; just give your dog separate space for play. Treat brown spots caused by dog urine with a sprinkling of garden lime. It neutralizes the uric acid and greens up affected areas if the grass can be revived. To discourage neighborhood dogs from marking your lawn, try one of the repellent products available at garden centers. Mothballs also repel cats and dogs.


Dear Rick,

I would love to know the secrets of watering my lawn. Help!

Diane from Sparta


Hello Diane,

Here’s everything you need to know about complete and proper hydration of your lawn.


Watering efficiently

A healthy lawn makes a very good filter for absorbing many things that can be washed into our streams. The ideal lawn is one that will grow best in your environment without lots of supplemental watering. We have all probably read about people living in desert areas in the country trying to grow lawns that require almost daily watering just to survive the summer heat. This is extremely foolish and short-sighted. Turf grasses were never intended to be grown everywhere.

That being said, there are parts of the country where various turf grasses are well suited without the need for daily watering. In many places, grass can be grown without any supplemental watering, or only very minor supplemental watering. The following information is specifically intended for those areas.

How much water does a lawn need?

In general, turf grasses need about 3/4″ — 1″ of water per week to maintain green color and active growth. However, during certain times during the summer when high temperatures are the norm, you should allow lawns to naturally slow down in growth during those extreme conditions. You may let the lawn go almost completely dormant in hot weather. Many factors such as the soil and weather all have a role in the lawn’s water needs. Here are a few guidelines to follow:

  • Decide before hand.
    Decide before summer heat and drought conditions arrive, to either water lawns consistently as needed throughout the season, or let lawns go dormant as conditions turn hot and dry. Do not rotate back and forth. In other words, don’t let the grass turn totally brown, then apply enough water to green it up, then let the grass go dormant again. Breaking the lawns dormancy actually drains large amounts of food reserves from the plant.
  • When is it time to water?
    The first few warm days of summer does not automatically mean to water lawns. In fact, allowing lawns to start to go under mild drought stress actually increases rooting.
    Watch for foot printing, or footprints remaining on the lawn after walking across it (instead of leaf blades bouncing back up). Grasses also tend to turn darker in color as they go under drought stress. Sampling the root zone soil could be another option.
  • Water as infrequently as possible.
    Thoroughly water when you do water so moisture soaks down to the roots. Exceptions to this general rule would be for newly seeded lawns where the surface needs to stay moist, newly sodded lawns that have not yet rooted into the soil, or when summer patch disease is a problem. Otherwise, avoid frequent waterings that promote shallower root systems and weeds (e.g., crabgrass).
  • Water early in the day if possible.
    Given a choice, water early in the day when lawns are normally wet from dew. Avoid midday watering due to excessive evaporation, and at night due to potential increased chances of some diseases gaining a foothold. The exception to this guide is when you are in extremely hot weather and nighttime temperatures don’t go below 68 degrees. Then it is better to water in the late afternoon or early evening, providing you don’t have watering-time restrictions. Early or late in the day reduces the amount of evaporation that takes place during the very hot day, allowing more water to reach the root zone.
  • Lawn watering systemSpread the water uniformly across the lawn.
    Sprinklers vary in distribution patterns, and require spray overlap for uniform coverage. Placing coffee cans or similar straight-sided containers on the lawn can help measure water application rates. Avoid flooding areas, or missing other spots. On heavy clay soils and slopes, watch for excessive runoff; it may be necessary to apply the water in several applications to allow for adequate penetration.
  • Water conservation.
    To help conserve water, mow your lawn at a higher than normal height, avoid applying an excess of nitrogen as warm weather approaches, limit traffic over the lawn, improve turf rooting, control thatch and soil compaction, and avoid pesticide use on drought stressed lawns. Don’t allow water to hit the driveway or into the street. This is just wasteful.
  • Avoid overwatering
    Use a rain gauge to measure how much water you’re applying. Overwatering does more than deplete the water supply, it also makes plants prone to pests and adds to storm water runoff, which pollutes our water systems. By choosing and operating a watering system correctly, you can reduce water bills, insect and disease problems, and maintenance requirements. For example, the more you water your lawn, the faster it grows and the more it needs to be mowed.
  • Hold off watering after fertilization and hold off fertilizing if heavy rains are expected.
    To reduce the possibility of having fertilizer wash into our water system, don’t water heavily soon after fertilizing. Use light waterings to give the fertilizer the opportunity to be absorbed by the soil. Also, if heavy rains are in the forecast, hold off fertilizing until the heavy rains have passed.
  • Monitor rainfall
    Don’t water the lawn if rains are expected soon. Keep track of rainfall for the week. Don’t apply more water to the lawn than what is absolutely necessary. The guide of about 1″ of water per week is only a guide. If your lawn doesn’t get that 1″ of water, it’s not going to die.


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